Cusco, known for its ancient Inca heritage, is also home to some of the most spectacular 6000 meter mountains in Cusco. Rising high above the Andes, Ausangate, Chumpe, and Yayamari represent the ultimate challenge for mountaineers seeking both beauty and technical difficulty.
Unlike the trekking routes that surround the Ausangate circuit, these climbs require technical experience, acclimatization, and proper mountain gear. Each summit offers a unique experience — from steep ice walls to long glacier traverses and remote Andean valleys where few climbers venture.
In this guide, you’ll discover what makes each of these three peaks special, how to reach them, and what you need to know before starting your ascent.
Nevado Ausangate (6,384 m): The Majestic and Most Challenging Climb in Cusco
The Ausangate Mountain, towering at 6,384 meters, is not only Cusco’s highest peak but also the most technically demanding. Its steep ice walls, exposed ridges, and ever-changing glacier routes make it a climb only suitable for well-prepared and experienced mountaineers.
Route and Technical Difficulty
Until 2022, climbers used the classic north face route, which featured a direct 200-meter ice wall leading straight to the plateau. However, this wall has disappeared due to glacier retreat, altering the landscape dramatically.
Today, two main routes remain:
- The West Ridge (Arista Oeste), located to the left of the former normal route, offers a more stable but technically demanding approach with mixed terrain (ice and rock).
- The North Shield (Escudo Norte), a grand vertical wall for advanced climbers, presents one of the most impressive faces in the Peruvian Andes.
Climbing Ausangate typically takes 4 to 6 days, depending on experience and acclimatization. The ascent requires the use of crampons, ice axes, ropes, helmets, harnesses, and glacier travel skills.
Why Climb Ausangate
Beyond its difficulty, Ausangate captivates climbers with its awe-inspiring views of glaciers, turquoise lakes, and high Andean plateaus. Standing on its summit means standing on the roof of Cusco — an experience of solitude and accomplishment like no other.
Nevado Chumpe (6,106 m): The Most Accessible 6000-Meter Peak in Cusco
While less known than Ausangate, Nevado Chumpe offers one of the most accessible climbs among Cusco’s six-thousanders. Its gentle slopes and moderate gradients make it suitable for mountaineers looking to gain experience on high-altitude snow and ice before tackling more technical summits.
Route Options
Chumpe can be approached in 5 days, and there are two main access routes:
- From Sibinacocha, crossing breathtaking alpine scenery and high glacial valleys.
- From the Callangate–Singrenacocha region, which offers a more direct route to the glacier base.
Although the route is less steep than Ausangate’s, accumulated snow and soft ice can make progress slow and physically demanding.
Climbing Conditions
The key challenge in Chumpe is the deep snow accumulation along the glacier, which requires good physical condition and navigation skills. Climbers should be equipped with standard glacier gear and travel in roped teams.
Why Climb Chumpe
Chumpe rewards climbers with expansive views of the Sibinacocha Lagoon and the Callangate massif. It’s often considered the perfect training ground for those preparing to climb Ausangate or other technical peaks in the Peruvian Andes.
Nevado Yayamari (6,049 m): A Hidden Giant Full of Crevasses
The Yayamari Mountain, located southeast of Ausangate, is known for its complex glaciers filled with deep crevasses and constantly changing ice conditions. Despite its beauty, Yayamari demands technical precision and awareness.
Routes and Recent Developments
The classic normal route has long been known for its abundance of crevasses, making the climb risky and time-consuming. However, since 2024, new routes have been opened that offer safer approaches with fewer crevasses and better snow bridges.
Climbers generally require 4 to 5 days to complete the expedition, depending on which route is chosen. The base camp can be established in the Sibinacocha basin, from where the glacier ascent begins.
Why Climb Yayamari
Yayamari stands out for its remote, untouched environment and the feeling of isolation it provides. The summit offers breathtaking panoramic views of the Vilcanota mountain range, the Chumpe glacier, and the vast Andean plateau. For experienced climbers, it’s a rewarding objective — technical, wild, and pure.
Best Season to Climb in Cusco’s High Andes
The best climbing season for all three mountains — Ausangate, Chumpe, and Yayamari — runs from May to September, during the dry season in the Andes.
During these months, skies are clearer, temperatures are stable, and snow conditions are ideal for glacier travel.
Avoid the rainy season (November to March), when storms, whiteouts, and avalanche risks increase significantly.
Preparation and Safety
Climbing 6000 meter mountains in Cusco is a serious endeavor that requires:
- Excellent acclimatization (spend several days above 4,000 m beforehand).
- Technical climbing skills on ice and mixed terrain.
- Reliable equipment: double boots, ice axes, ropes, harnesses, and helmets.
- Certified guides: join a professional mountaineering agency in Cusco familiar with these routes.
- Emergency planning: carry communication devices and weather updates.
Ready to Climb the Giants of Cusco?
Turn your dream of conquering the Andes into reality. Join The Ausangate Trek for unforgettable expeditions to Ausangate (6,384 m), Yayamari (6,049 m), and Chumpe (6,106 m) — the three most iconic 6000-meter peaks in Cusco.
Our certified mountain guides, local expertise, and high-quality equipment ensure a safe, authentic, and life-changing climbing experience. Whether you’re seeking technical challenge, remote beauty, or personal achievement, we’ll take you there — step by step, rope by rope.
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